This is my first email and blog of my Venice diaries series.
I wanted to create a space dedicated to my subscribers of this blog.
Here I’ll share (in a more personal and intimate style) my trips and experiences in Venice and the Veneto Region, as well as what and who I meet along my way.
They are not meant to inform or educate, but to inspire and connect more with me…
I hope you enjoy them and you can Follow me on Instagram for more content like this.
Venice Travel Blog (Venice diaries)
From the train station, I crossed the Calatrava bridge and walked past Piazzale Roma, crossed the Ponte Tre Ponti and walked down Fondamenta del Gaffaro where I stopped at Il Grifone.
After a quick look around, I interrupted what it looked like to be the business owner to ask some questions. Il Grifone is a leather goods shop, every piece is handmade on site by Toni and his son.
He’s one of the few left Venetian artisans and he’s been doing this for more than 30 years. If you’re looking for high quality leather bags, belts, or even small items that can work well as souvenirs, this is the place to visit.
I was starting to feel in need of my second breakfast, so I stopped by Pasticceria Tonolo. A place that reminds of my old university days when I used to get a pastry to take away, just before class. After a macchiato and croissant, I was ready to keep going.
On my to-do list, there was the Chiesa di San Pantalon, famous for holding one of the largest ceiling canva in the world. Unfortunately, the church is closed on Fridays.
I ended up at Ca’ Foscari palace, the university headquarter, to find out there was a free art exhibition called ‘Uzbekistan: Avant-Garde in the Desert’. Guess what?
There were four works by Kandinsky, among other talented artists. Just so you know, I have a guide on the blog about free things to do in Venice that you can do all year round.
Dorsoduro is that neighbourhood in Venice where you can find the best artisanal and artist ‘botteghe’ (workshops or ateliers). It’s here that I visited Ca’ Macana, one of the most famous mask making shops.
They also organise workshops so you can learn how to make papier-mâché masks from scratch, one of my suggested activities to consider if you’re in Venice with children.
Not far from there, another leather goods shop I heard about got my attention: Il Graffio. I also had the chance to talk with Luigi, who ideates the designs of the bags and works with a team on the direct hinterland to create high quality leather items.
Time for some cicchetti and a drink. But first I stop to have a quick look at the Libreria La Toletta, the oldest bookshop in Venice, where I see some cool souvenirs.
I also checked the nearby art shop by Nicola Tenderini. I love its watercolours, paintings and prints. They also make wonderful souvenirs to take at home with you.
I crossed the Ponte de le Maravegie. I find myself not far from Enoteca Schiavi where I stop for a couple of cicchetti and a glass of Prosecco. Not happy with that and knowing I was only a few minutes away from Gelateria Nico, I also stopped there for a gelato.
When I got there, Mattia, the son’s owner, recommended tasting their iconic Gianduiotto. Their signature dessert is nothing less than a creamy slice of gianduja drowned in a glass of whipped cream. Worthless to say that by then, I was in food heaven!
From Gelateria Nico, I keep walking on Fondamenta Zattere until I get to Punta della Dogana. From here you can enjoy the views of St. Mark’s Basin and get some shade but also get the gondola traghetto to Santa Maria del Giglio (the 2 euros gondola), if you like and get faster and closer to St. Mark’s Square.
After a quick pit stop at the Basilica of Santa Maria della Salute, I pass by the Peggy Guggenheim Collection and Palazzo Cini to reach Ponte dell’Accademia.
I cross the bridge and walk through Campo Santo Stefano. Tempted to get a Spritz at the Terrazza Aperol, I decide to continue. It was getting (too) late.
Only a few metres from the campo, I see from the street these wonderful marbled paper creations. It’s the Antica Legatoria Ofer.
I learned that Ebru is an ancient painting technique to decorate paper that Venetians learnt from Turkish people and that originated in Persia.
I browse around and look at all these beautiful handmade paper products. Greeting cards, bookmarks, small and large prints as well as notebooks.
I feel particularly fascinated while learning that everything started from the skilful hands of the Ebru Master Alberto Valese. He was the only foreign Ebrù Master recognized in Turkey and he was from Venice.
My next stop is St. Mark’s Square, that’s literally packed with tourists. It’s 3 pm. I then have a coffee and pastry at Rosa Salva. The chocolate éclairs are spectacular!
My plan included a stop at La Terrazza Bar of the H10 Palazzo Canova, and that’s where I ended up going for a drink. This rooftop terrace is considered one of the best in the city for the view and it’s definitely worth it.
It overlooks the Grand Canal and you can easily spot the Rialto Bridge too. I recommend trying their signature cocktail ‘Venice in Love’, let me know what you think if you go.
I then visited a jewellery shop I spotted when I was in Venice back in May and decided to go back. It’s the Murano glass boutique shop The M Venezia.
I take a bit of time to see their cool Murrina creations. Here, you can customise your own jewels by adding the Murrina glasses that you like the most.
I conclude the day with a last bite: the polpette (meatballs) and grilled polenta to take away from Acqua e Mais.
Also, if you’re looking for places to eat on a budget in Venice read my guide or other food related posts on this blog that will certainly point you in the right direction.
Now… it’s time to leave and get my train back to Castelfranco.
A presto Venezia,
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